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RUCA Install   PDF  Print  E-mail
Written by Aaron D.  
Sunday, 29 February 2004

 

Rear Upper Control Arm(RUCA, I say it like roo-kah because its easy that way) install on the track whore 1995 240SX.

 

Things needed:

            Simple hand tools

            A jack

            A pair of jackstands

            Some patience

 

            After the coilover install I had a fair amount of negative camber in the rear of the car. This is due to the fact that 240s are multilink in the rear and the stock eccentric bolt would not have been able to dial enough of the camber out. I ended up opting for the Tanabe Sustec RUCA as I felt it was the best buy for the quality I desire. I had looked at the battleversion RUCA, but I read that I would need to run a spacer to make it fit right. Since I have a thorough hate for spacers I decided to go with the Tanabe.

 

            Here is a little comparison between the stock 240 RUCA and the Tanabe.

 

 

            As you can see in the picture above, the new RUCAs are much nicer looking and definitely much beefier than the stock units I had on my car. The stock ones are squarish in shape and hollow in the middle, which would allow flex while hard cornering. Meanwhile, the Tanabes are thick round pipes with very solid pillow ball mounds on the end. The Tanabes also look nice, but since my car is not a show car the looks are merely an added bonus.

 

Onto the install:

 

            I started the work by jacking up my car by the only place the jack now fits: the rear diff. I then of course put in the jackstands and took off the wheels. This gives you a complete view of the suspension and the job at hand. As predicted the two bolts holding in the passenger side RUCA were both solidly rusted on. To get off the outside bolt required the use of the bigger BFH and a 19mm wrench. Once this was broken free I left the bolt on there to hold the RUCA in place while I started to fight with the inside bolt.

 

Both outside and inside nuts/bolts:

 

 

 

            The inside bolt is kind of hard to get at which negated the use of the bigger BFH since I was worried about hitting the rest of the suspension and mainly my new coilovers. So instead of the BFH we opted to use the backyard barn technology of putting a bigger wrench on the 19mm wrench to get better mechanical advantage. After Mark had a few wrenches fly at his head the bolt finally popped loose. However, this was not the end of the battle as the bolt would not come out even with the nut completely off. It infact would not even move while being persuaded by a hammer. So after looking at it and trying a few other ways to get the bolt out to no avail we were left to search on the internet to see if there was something we were missing.

 

            As it turns out the way the stock eccentric bolt works is by a washer with an offset hole and a little tooth type thing to hold the bolt in. The way that works is the bolt has a groove down the middle of it that allows it to slide through the tooth and then when it is turned the bolt locks into place. So I then went back out to give this a whirl. I put the bolt and nut back together and tightened it down, gave the bolt a little turn and took the nut off again. Once I did this the bolt came right out and the day was won.

 

            The culprit:

 

 

            The install of the new RUCA was insanely easy as it just involved the tightening down of each bolt and nut. So I put in the new piece and then we tightened the inside one down to around 80lb/ft and the outside one to 90lb/ft.

 

            With the passenger side all said and done, the driver side took all of 20 minutes as we figured out all the drama already.

 

            Here are some pictures of the RUCAs on the car.

 

 

 

 

            This picture shows the fact that I donít have rediculous amounts of negative camber anymore.

 

 

Last Updated ( Sunday, 29 February 2004 )
 
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